Day 10 -- San Onofre

Monday, Aug 20, 2007

I had a leisurely breakfast at the campground, drove to the surf beach to check out the waves, then went to the library to update the blog. I'd have surfed in the morning, but I wanted to give my ankle some more time to heal.

As I mentioned, I'm on this surf safari because my wife is attending a class reunion, of her grade school, in Luleå, Sweden (pronounced Looly-O). She really enjoyed it, and here's a picture of her grade school classmates, all of whom she remembered (arrow shows wife Lena):

Looks like maybe they're having too much fun:


She won the prize for having traveled the greatest distance (total travel time 42 hours).

Back to me...

Ankle was fine with surfing. It was less fine with walking, so I did a lot of paddling to avoid walking.

Finally some bigger waves (see Day 11 for pictures)! The sets of waves only came in every 20-30 minutes or so, but they were nice 5+ foot swells. It's very different from home. In San-O you'll sit there for 20 minutes with no swell at all, and then a set will roll in. It's much more constant up north.

There are a lot more surfers here -- about 100-200 spread over a wide area -- so frequently, when a good wave comes in there are already three surfers on it. But I got some big rides. I surfed until sunset, with my last ride of the day being the best.

Here are some pictures of the sunset (click to enlarge):





Went back to the campsite and had a late, tasty dinner of hot dogs roasted over a wood fire. I'd eat this meal a lot if it weren't bad for you.

Eating

Speaking of eating -- it's a little harder to eat healthful food on a trip like this than when at home. Luckily, with surfing three or more hours a day I don't think I need to worry about calories. But it's hard to find a picnic table, stop, make a tuna fish sandwich, etc. when it's so quick and cheap to buy a Whopper junior for 99 cents.

The best solution I've found for a cheap, healthful, readily available meal is a Subway Veggie Delite for only $2.89 (price recently reduced). That's my fast food of choice. The sweet onion sauce is recommended. I say "readily available" because every town has at least one Subway.

Note that the "Less than 6 grams of fat" advertisement refers to a sandwich made with no cheese and no condiments. I tried one this way -- I think it was the first time they'd ever made one -- and it wasn't too boring.

Got a good night's sleep.